Lamborghini Egoista celebrates 50 years of the Raging Bull

Representing hedonism taken to the extreme, the Egoista is made for one person only

A gala celebration of Lamborghini's 50th anniversary in the brand's Italian hometown of Sant’Agata Bolognese this weekend culminated with the dramatic introduction of a concept supercar called Egoista.
A personal project of Volkswagen Design Group's head of design, Walter De Silva, the Egoista is said to be, "forged from a passion for innovation and alternative solutions, the same passion which has always set the Lamborghini brand apart."
"I am very attached to this Italian brand, being an Italian myself," said De Silva. "I wanted to pay homage to and think up a vehicle to underline the fact that Lamborghinis have always been made with passion, and with the heart more than the head."
To that end, the Egoista is made for one person only. Powered by a 600- horsepower, 5.2-litre V-10 engine producing 600 horsepower, it is a visual statement on wheels.
"It is designed purely for hyper-sophisticated people who want only the most extreme and special things in the world," De Silva explained. "It represents hedonism taken to the extreme; it is a car without compromises, in a word: egoista (selfish)."
The Volkswagen Group design team that created the Egoista included Alessandro Dambrosio, responsible for the exterior, and Stefan Sielaff in charge of the interior.
The car's side-view is dominated by the stylized profile of a bull preparing to charge, with its horns lowered, driving towards the front wheels.
The plan view reveals a trimaran profile, with the central hull forming a dedicated section for the cockpit and engine, highlighted by a carbon-fibre cover on the front hood.
Rather than the usual add-on aerodynamic appendages, the bodywork incorporates flaps integrated into its surfaces, which act automatically depending on the driving conditions.
Other innovative feature include the Egoista's lighting: LED clearance lights – two white front lights, two red rear lights, a red flashing light in the upper part of the tail, two orange bull's eyes as side markers, and a further two lights on the roof, red on the left and green; and two powerful xenon headlamps, hidden behind the front air intakes.
The Egoista's aircraft-inspired single-seater cockpit is designed like a tailor-made suit for the driver. It comprises a removable section that is in effect a survival cell, isolating and protecting the driver from external elements.
Its inspiration is said to come, in particular, from the cockpit of the Apache helicopter.
Don't expect the Egoista to become a production car. It is pure emotion, Lamborghini says – a Never-Never-Land, which no one can ever possess, and which will always remain a dream, for everyone.

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Auto DIY Don’ts!

Do-it-yourself repair work can save you time and money – in addition to giving you a lot of satisfaction. But doing it wrong can end up costing you more in time and money than you would have spent farming the work out to a professional mechanic – and sour you on the idea of ever getting under the hood yourself again.
 
For instance:

* Attempting a repair you’ve never done before without having a shop manual to refer to.

This is probably the number two pratfall on any list of beginner DIY mistakes. Never disassemble stuff without knowing the proper procedure, including how the parts fit back together.  A shop manual will typically have schematics, photos, diagrams and so on – as well as a step-by-step procedure for each repair. Winging it without the manual is about as bright as trying to prepare an elaborate gourmet dinner you’ve never made before … without the cookbook.
And if you plan to do more than the most basic maintenance/repair work (oil and filter changes, etc.) spend the extra dollars for a factory shop manual. These cost more than the Haynes/Chilton manuals you’ll find at auto parts store – but they’re worth every FRN. The Haynes/Chiltons manuals are ok – but they’re nowhere near as comprehensive (and specific) as the factory manuals. Often, you can find the factory manuals in PDF form online – and these can be viewed or even downloaded for free or for much less cost than buying the hard copy manual. For hard copy manuals, hunt on eBay. The thing is going to get greasy and dog-eared anyhow. Why pay full mark-up for a new manual when you can buy a used – but perfectly complete – one for half the price?

* Randomly pulling parts before you know what’s wrong.
 
This is number one. The major mistake DIY people make at some point along the learning curve. Like touching a hot stove (or voting for major party candidates) it is – hopefully – a mistake you’ll only make once. Because like voting for a Republican in the hope of less government – or a Democrat in the hope of less government – it only leads to frustration and a lighter wallet.
Doctors don’t begin treatment before evaluating the patient and making a diagnosis. It should be no different with any automotive “operation.” Find out what’s wrong first – then fix it. The shop manual mentioned earlier will have diagnostic procedures you can use to eliminate possibilities, one by one – until you arrive at the problem. Never guess – never assume.

Know.

* Not using the proper tools.
 
This is a pretty common beginner DIY issue – because few beginners have a full set of mechanic’s tools – in particular, the often specialized equipment needed to properly perform certain diagnostic and repair procedures. This leads to improvisation, which sometimes works – but sometimes also leads to physical damage of the part being worked on – in addition to skinned knuckles and a lot of cursing and – very often – a lot of wasted time, too. You might spend hours – literally – trying to remove a part/assembly with the wrong tool that could have been removed – with the right tool – in half an hour.

If specialized tools are required, be sure you have them before you begin. It’s often possible to rent such tools at auto parts stores – which is much less expensive than buying them. And: be sure you know how to use them properly. Ask the counter guy to walk you through the proper use of the tool if you have any doubt at all about how to use it. You’ll reduce the chances of hurting the car – or yourself – this way.
 
* Not having the right place to work.

It’s important to have a safe, secure area to work on your vehicle. The shopping mall parking lot isn’t it. A covered space – so you and the car are out of the weather – is ideal. Good lighting is also important. If you need to raise the vehicle, be sure it is parked on a level (and solid) surface, not grass. Beginners get killed or badly injured every year when an improperly supported car either rolls on top of them or slips off the jack stands and crushes them.

* Rushing it.
 
Deciding to tear your car apart on a  Sunday afternoon but needing to have it ready to make the commute Monday morning is a really bad idea. Always allot sufficient time to finish the job – which means, whatever you expect it to take plus whatever it actually ends up taking. Remember: You are not a NASCAR pit crew. Those guys have to get it done right now. You don’t. Or rather, you shouldn’t put yourself in the position of having to get it done right now. Or even tomorrow.  Rushing almost always leads to ruin. Don’t do it.
Expect delays as a result of things you didn’t anticipate – such as needing to get a part in the middle of the job (a part you might have to order – and wait for). Or spending an hour on getting a bolt off you assumed you’d be able to remove in a minute or two. Let the job take as long as it takes to get it done right. If that means driving something else to work, bumming a ride – whatever you have to do  – it’s better than doing it (the repair) wrong because you were in a hurry.

* Getting mad.
 
This mistake often springs from the loins of the other mistakes already listed. You’ve got the car’s guts all over the driveway and have no idea how to get them back together. Or you lost something. Or need something you haven’t got. Or something’s not fitting right. This kind of thing happens to professional mechanics, too. The difference between them and a ranting/raging do-it-yourselfer is the pro knows when to step away for a minute, have a cup of coffee, a smoke – whatever – and relax.
The solution will come to you. Maybe not in 5 minutes. Maybe not even today. But it will come.

If you learn to be patient.

* Rigging it.

It can be tempting to home-engineer a fix that isn’t quite what the manual called for, but seems like it ought to work. This is ok in an emergency – like when you’re dealing with a broken down car in the middle of nowhere and just need to get it to run long enough to get you somewhere else – but don’t do it otherwise. Because the “fix” could easily end up causing more problems than it solved.
Do it the right way – or don’t do it. 
 
* Refusing to ask for help when you need it.

Pride definitely goes before the fall, in life and car repair alike. Even the best of us don’t know everything – but the wise among us know it’s no sign of weakness to ask someone who might know more than we do. If you can’t figure out what the manual says, or are having trouble getting something to work, there is no shame in seeking the counsel of others – friends, online resources (YouTube is excellent – just take what you view with all due caution; sometimes the info’s good – sometimes, it’s not). Also try the guy at the parts place,  even a professional mechanic.  Just ask – the worst that can happen is they tell you no.
Or that they don’t know.
In which case, ask someone else.
Just don’t guess!

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Porsche 911 Turbo revealed with 560 hp, ludicrous speed

It's not easy putting into context the ever-increasing performance of the world's fastest sports cars, like the Porsche 911 Turbo S revealed today. But let me offer a few examples:
By the time your eyes reach the comma in this sentence, the new Porsche 911 Turbo S can hit 60 mph. At top speed of 198 mph, the 911 Turbo could outrace a Boeing 747 on takeoff. And the 2013 edition of the 911 Turbo S with 560 hp has double the motive energy of the original 1974 model.
The 911 Turbo always promises the meanest and maddest version of the 911, but this version arrives with every technological trick Stuttgart could muster. Start with the engine: the 3.2-liter flat-six gets mated to two variable-turbine turbochargers, with power set at 520 hp in the non-S edition. That power leaves the engine via a seven-speed PDK automatic; of all the available options, a manual transmission isn't one of them, as Porsche has found even its customers prefer to let computers shift faster than they could. That transmission links to an all-wheel-drive system that can handle more power to the front wheels; Porsche says the new 911 Turbo can hit 60 mph in 3.2 seconds — 2.9 for the Turbo S — and lap the Nurburgring in under 7 minutes, 30 seconds — on stock 20-inch wheels.



The body has been widened in traditional 911 Turbo fashion to handle the wider wheels and engine bits. The rear axle comes with Porsche's new active steering system; it can turn the tires 2.8 degrees either in the same or opposite direction as the front wheels based on speed, which Porsche claims makes the 911 Turbo easier to handle at slow speeds and more consistent in the tail wagging 911 owners seek. Even the aerodynamics get a bit of overengineering; not only does the deployable rear spoiler has three settings for either maximum speed or handling, but there's also a three-stage front spoiler that can automatically deploy for maximum downforce. And the new all-LED headlights can be ordered with beams that can follow the road via a front camera.

All of this excitement carries a steep price: $149,000 for the 911 Turbo, and $182,000 for the Turbo S, before the alpine climb of Porsche's option sheet. At those levels of price and performance, the competition lies with Ferrari on the higher end or a Nissan GT-R for penny pinchers. If recent sales history is any guide, Porsche dealers won't need to worry about either.

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7 Automotive Preps for SHTF

If the S hits the F, will you look like ZZ Top a month afterward? Assuming you don’t want to you won’t have to – if you stocked up on razor blades along with your other preps.
I was thinking about stuff like this the other day. The small stuff that we often take for granted – but which will be taken away from us if the S does hit the F. Stuff like being able to shave. So, I decided to add razor blades – especially the cheap disposable type, which you can buy in bulk quantities at very low cost – and also shaving cream – to my stock-up list. I now have enough to keep The Beard at bay for at least a year – maybe two, if I am careful.

Then I got to thinking about car preps. If the S does hit the F, it won’t be possible to head down to the local NAPA. Which is why it might be good to have the following stuff on hand at home:

* Extra oil filters (and oil) -
 
People know gas (and diesel) will be harder to find – maybe impossible to find – if the S hit the F. And even if you home-brew or otherwise obtain fuel, eventually, your vehicles – and generators, tractors and power equipment – will need new filters. And fresh oil. Otherwise, they’ll eventually fail – no matter how much fuel you have stocked up (or make). Having extra filters and oil on hand to do a changeout for each vehicle you own at least twice (which ought o be sufficient to ride out a 2-3 year ordeal, at least) is probably a very smart prep.  It’s also a no-risk one – because even if the S does not hit the F, you will eventually need to change the oil/filter – and oil/filters don’t go bad (as stored food sometimes does). Worst case, you’ve saved yourself some money by buying stuff now (at lower cost) than it will probably cost you a year from now.

* Batteries -
Make sure they’re up to date – and do all you can to keep them charged up, so that if the grid goes down, your batteries will still be ok for at least a couple of months’ worth of use. I rotate three trickle chargers among my fleet of vehicles and equipment so that each one is kept ready-to-go. This saves me hassle – as well as money. If you have multiple vehicles, you’ll know that batteries can get expensive. Doing whatever you can to make them last as long possible – S hitting the F or not – is just common sense.

* Tires -
The rubber that hits the road is the result of a complex – and fragile – chain of technological processes, all of which may be impaired or crippled by the S hitting the F. Tires are a petroleum-based product, for one. Imagine the effect of a major war in the Middle East on the price – and availability – of any product that is petroleum dependent. Your bug-out vehicle is only as good as its tires. Make sure they are good tires – no physical damage, plenty of tread. Ideally, new – or at least, not old. Some people keep a bug-out vehicle “just sitting” for a SHTF scenario. But if it’s been sitting for years, you might find out you’re not buggin’ out – on account of flat/dry-rotted tires. Don’t let that happen to you. A set of fresh “meats” might be worth more than a pocketful of silver coins if things go sour.
 
* Basic Maintenance -
Routine stuff – belts, hoses, brake pads (and brake fluid) spark plugs and air filters – it’s a really good idea to take care of this before you really need to take care of it.  As with engine oil/filters, buying ahead of time – so you have these items on hand, in your garage – will mean one less thing to sweat if things do get hairy. The S may not hit the F head-on. It might be a glancing blow – enough to cause horrendous economic problems (price inflation and shortages) such that the parts that are easy (and cheap) to acquire today could be not-easy to acquire (and far from cheap) tomorrow.

Related:
Fuel type – and storage – is a subject of much discussion among people trying to prepare for the possibility of a short-term (or medium-long term) economic-societal disconnect. Let’s take a look at some of the issues – and problems.

* Gasoline -
Most vehicles (and portable generators) run on gas, which is a highly refined as well as not very stable product – meaning, it doesn’t have a very long shelf life. It is designed to be used fairly quickly – days/weeks after having been refined. It is imperative, therefore, to treat (and store) the fuel in such a way as to maximize its shelf-life. Most people know about Sta-Bil “red” – the fuel stabilizer sold at  just about every parts place and Wal-Mart across the country. But you’ll want to buy some Sta-Bil “green” – the lesser-known marine-grade stuff. I wrote a detailed article about that here. It costs a little more, but it’s hard to put a value on having fresh fuel  – and a generator that starts when you desperately need it to. Like when you need to power the well pump that brings drinking water up from 200 feet beneath your house.

* Diesel -
It is less refined than gas – though that is changing, courtesy of government “low sulfur” fuel mandates. However, you can realistically expect diesel to last longer than gas – and if you buy red-dyed off-road diesel for just-in-case, it ought to last a very long time indeed, if stored in a sealed container and kept in a temperature controlled environment. Even then, it’s a very good idea to buy some anti-algae additive and mix that in with your fuel cache.
 
* Natural gas/propane -
The main advantage here is almost indefinite shelf-life. Suburbanites may find their gas lines have been turned off in a S hitting the F situation, but this will not affect portable storage units (such as the ones that you use with backyard gas grills) or the larger tanks for home heating use common in rural areas. It is possible to rig a car to run on either fuel – though you will need specialized parts as well as the knowledge to install them correctly. More important – in a S hitting the F situation – will be your ability to heat food (and yourself) as well as to power a generator. 
 
I did an article a few months ago about converting a standard portable gas-engined generator to operate on gasoline and CNG or propane; see here for that. Doing this conversion is fairly easy and fairly cheap – less than $200 for most kits. If you do the conversion – and store up 100 lbs. or so of fuel – you’ll have less to worry about if the S hits the F. And less to worry about if it doesn’t – because the CNG/propane isn’t going to go bad on you.

Ever.

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